In Paris this week, Anrealage designer Kunihiko Morinaga lived as much as his status for combining technical wizardry with craftsmanship.
His Paris Trend Week present Tuesday, in a subterranean house beneath the town’s Palais de Tokyo venue, took his signature photochromic material expertise—supplies that dramatically change coloration below ultraviolet gentle—to much more excessive ranges of innovation.
This season, his material of alternative for the photochromic therapy was clear, environmentally pleasant “phthalate-free” PVC, in all method of iterations. The gathering was aptly titled “Invisible.”
First to take to the venue’s central podium had been a collection of puffer silhouettes, which had been quilted with air as a substitute of down or feathers. They had been described by the present notes as resembling “couture bubble wrap.”
Fashions walked out individually or in pairs, first doing a circuit in common lighting so the unique state of the clothes might be noticed by showgoers. However then they positioned themselves on a central disc whereupon the lighting modified to ultraviolet.
This in flip acted upon the clothes, reworking them into all colours of the rainbow. The disc proceeded to slowly revolve so everybody might see the complete 360-degree impact. Then the lights went up they usually exited the stage within the newly coloured appears, which slowly light again to their unique state.
— FASHIONSNAP (@fashionsnap) September 27, 2023
Extra streamlined trench silhouettes adopted, some contoured into checkerboard patterns through taped seams. These duly took on a number of hues within the completely different squares and borders. Even the denim and cotton bodysuits worn beneath modified their colours to disclose a repeat sample of “AZ” monogram logos.
Morinaga, who has been experimenting with photochromic material expertise for over a decade, has even trademarked his proprietary tech below the title ANVISUAL.
Alongside the couture-level tech, Morinaga’s handcraftsmanship was additionally clearly evidenced, and the going through and seams had been usually hand-embroidered or knitted.
The designer additionally modulated the present lights through a “hyperspectral coloration management expertise,” so shades rippled throughout the surfaces of the clothes based on the completely different gentle sources.
The present notes said that the idea was derived from Morinaga’s exploration of “umwelt” (German for “surroundings”), with the thought being that “coloration as perceived by the human eye is just not absolute and shifts based on the surroundings, relying on the climate and bodily and chemical parts.”
The ultimate pairing, probably the most spectacular of all, featured a raincoat duo with a kaleidoscopic mosaic impact recalling stained glass. It performed out to a suitably ecclesiastical inflected organ soundtrack.